The
journey from St. Petersburg, Russia to Onkoshi Rest Camp in Etosha National
Park, Namibia took seventy-seven, hours, basically 3 days! Grueling in a way but yet fascinating as we
transitioned from advanced historical civilization to about as far away from
civilization as one could possible be.
After
an extended layover at Charles De Gaulle Airport in Paris, we travelled on Air
France’s Airbus 380 first class overnight flight to Johannesburg, South Africa.
First class service it was, including lay-down beds after a fine French supper
(at midnight) and ending with an African breakfast served prior to arrival
right on time at 10:00 a.m. We decided to stay at a hotel right at the airport
since we were flying the next morning on to Namibia and so we had an evening to
kill. Although we had been through J’burg two times before, we had never felt
really comfortable to venture out into the city. Since last time though, they
have built the "Gautrain", a high-speed beautiful modern train right
from the airport into central J’burg so we decided to find the Hard Rock Café
for a pin, beer and burger, Great choice as it was fast, easy and the train dumped
us out a block away from the HRC. Admittedly, we passed a lot of slums along
the way but the central city was modern, safe and clean. In bed by ten for a
needed good night's slumber.
Our
flight to Namibia left at noon the next day and was an easy two-hour flight.
This country borders South Africa to the east and south and is on the Atlantic
Ocean to the west. Angola is to the north but it is a cesspool of failure and
poverty and they seem to always be at war with their neighbors. Our little
airport is only thirty miles from the border but we are driving south and away
from all the misery. Only 1.8 million people, Namibia is about the size of
North and South Carolina combined and is known to be among the safest, most
beautiful countries in all of Africa. Without dragging our readers through the
history of the country, we'll only say that it has a significant German
background before the country gained it's independence in the 1950's .Consequently,
there's a German feel to the place...architecture, language and food. Anyway, after
a chaotic two-hour clearance through passport control, our pre-arranged driver
Louis was dutifully waiting for us and took us to our hotel in Windhoek, the
capital of Namibia. Had a GREAT dinner at Joe’s Beer Haus and turned in early
for the 4:00 a.m. wakeup call for our flight north to Ondangwa where we rented a
Hertz car to start our journey south into Etosha National Park.
First
stop was to get provisions for our six-night stay in the park. The Hertz lady
advised NOT leave our car unattended at the grocery store since the windows
would immediately be smashed and contents robbed. OK…welcome to Africa! After a
coin-flip, Bill guarded the car and Andrea went in and did the shopping. Turned
out there were armed guards roaming the parking lot but better safe than sorry
on losing our entire luggage and trashing the car. After a pleasant shopping
experience, we’re off for the 120km drive south to Onkoshi Camp. It’s this
drive that gives us the true since of rural Africa. Mud and tin huts everywhere
and as we drove through the several small communities there were people
everywhere just hanging out, drinking beer under shade trees and butchering
meat (goat?) and hanging the bloody pieces on clothes lines to dry. Also saw many
ladies carrying goods, bananas, etc. on their heads walking to markets.
Different world, but it is their world and we clearly are visitors!
Etosha
National park is one of Africa’s world-class parks and is centered around an
ancient salt-water ocean that is now a lake that fills in the rainy season and dries
to a salt flat in the other seasons. Visible from space, it’s about two hundred
miles by eighty miles and the vast majority is unexplored land full of all
kinds of wildlife, reptiles, flora and fauna. The Namibian government operates
“rest camps” which are basically facilities for tourist to overnight as they
transverse the park. Each has beautiful accommodations, a restaurant, fuel and
basic provisions. We are staying at four different ones over our six-day visit
in the park. Right after entering the park, we were greeted by a heard of
Zebras in the road that seemed totally unimpressed that we were on their road
and trying to pass them.
Our
first camp is Onkoshi Rest camp which overlooks the salt flats (the “Pan”) and
since today is our twenty-fifth wedding anniversary we are splurging and staying
in the honeymoon suite. The view is spectacular and the night stars are just
beyond description. Had a surprisingly excellent meal and service in the camp restaurant
and came back to our villa to a welcome basket of fruit and Champaign. Tomorrow…our
first game drive!
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| The Honeymoon suite! |
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| Sunset on the evening of 5/15 |
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| Welcome basket |
