Friday, May 12, 2017

A different kind of Russia


Wow. St. Petersburg, Russia. It's a beautiful, world-class city!

Our two-day schedule included one so-called down day to do laundry but we are learning that with a little planning and a lot of luck at communicating, we can squeeze in some sight-seeing on our laundry day. Which, we did.

We sniffed out the nearest laundromat the afternoon we got in to the city. About .5 km walk from our hotel...it was in a rather dingy basement of a rather dingy building but as in Irkutsk, the little laundromat was clean, bright and efficient. Manned by a helpful lady whom we were able to google-translate with...no problem. Get this: with Andrea's I-phone and sim card, we were able to UBER down there with all our dirty laundry for $1.74. Amazing, this technology. Got nine days of clothes recycled while we watched movies on our I-pads and by 1:30 we were UBER-ing back and ready to hit the streets. First stop was the Kunstkamera Museum, an oddball collection of Peter the Great's studies, relics and superstitions from around the world as a young man. Interesting, but after seeing rooms full of deformed creatures pickled in formaldehyde from three-hundred years ago, we were ready for some fresh air.
 Skelton of calf with two heads,      and here it is stuffed..      

Box of extracted teeth, which we thought about breaking into since Bill has already lost a crown on this trip. Luckily, the tooth has had a root canal and we won't have to endure the nightmare we faced in Turkey on our last around the world trip! 
So, we ended up strolling back along Nevsky Prospect, the main thoroughfare where our hotel was located and viewing the mind-boggling assortment of beautiful cathedrals, buildings and monuments along the two-mile walk.

These large structures were shipping beacons used for navigation when the oil was lit. The Rostral Columns are situated on Strelka, the eastern tip of Vasilievsky island. In 1733 the port of St. Petersburg was set up here. The port grew quickly as trade with Western Europe increased. The columns were built as beacons to guide the constantly growing number of ships during St. Petersburg's long dark nights. We are posing with the male and female river Gods.
 Peter and Paul Fortress

Hermitage from river bridge view
 The Church of Our Savior on the Spilled Blood (below). This marvelous Russian-style church was built on the spot where Emperor Alexander II was assassinated in March 1881.



Just a pretty flower box along the way

Another architectural beauty

They call it the Venice of Russia...for obvious reasons!

We had pre-planned to stop at a quaint little Irish Pub for a few chillies and then stepped right next door to the restaurant "Oh, Cuba"...obviously a Cuban restaurant and it was a great choice! Two Cuban dudes serenading the patrons with a guitar, maracas, and great voices! Tasty food, too.
We opted out of eating in the cuban car but it did look like fun! 

On Thursday May 11, we got an early start (took a bus like the locals) to The Hermitage...the winter palace of Peter the Great and now a museum. This place is just beyond words. Located right on the Neva river,  it is a 300-plus room palace that is eye-popping in it's own right...not to mention the world-class artifacts and masterpieces from Monet, DeVinci, etc. It would take months to see and study it all. With the help of our handy Frommer's book, we did a four-hour fly-by of the absolute highlights with a promise that if we ever are in the area again....

First stop Palace Square in front of the Hermitage.  To read about its importance in Saint Petersburg history, click here. Palace Square




Just a random chair in the middle of the square😁 



Some of our favorite pictures inside the Heritage. It truly was a marvel!

The Jordan Staircase; Breathtaking



The living quarters:
The library

A sitting room
The Crimson Room

The Music Room

One of the door knobs, FANCY!







Hall of Busts 
The White Room for weddings
The Palace Chapel

Portraits of famous men

We looked like this after getting lost several times! 

The famous Peacock Clock



Mosaic floor in the room that housed the Peacock Clock.


A wine urn!
Vase







From there, we crossed the bridge (St. Pete is actually a series of islands built from swamp and bogs) to see the Peter and Paul Fortress, a fort built by Peter while his big 'ol palace across the river was being built. This thing was an eclectic but meaningful collection of historical buildings including a prison that held many of the "criminals" from the 1917 Bolshevik revolution. Quite depressing to tour that prison and try to relate to what it must have been like when operational. The real gem, though was that the cathedral there holds all the tombs of Russian royalty and Tsars from Peter the great through the Romanov dynasty including Nicholas II and his family (See earlier blog on Bill's high school term paper). The remains of the Tsar, his wife and their five children were moved from Siberia to here in 1998 and a special chapel was built to memorialize them. For Bill, it was very moving to see the Grand Duchess Anastasia's (supposed) final resting place.







We've come to recognize that our knowledge of Russian history was nonexistent before we got here and just a little bit improved now. The history of this country is truly fascinating and is complex and deep. Not to mention, it goes back nearly seven-hundred years so there's a lot of stuff that's happened and is documented in these places we've seen.

In summary, St. Petersburg is a spectacular place. Completely different in appearance, feel and appeal from Moscow, we thought. There are no buildings higher than six stories (that's the highest we saw). The place is spotless, friendly, easy to navigate (we never even took the subway), historic and restaurant\bar options are endless. And....having said that...on our last night in this fascinating country...we really do feel that we've seen the whole of Russia from sea to shinning sea (Pacific to Baltic).  We've seen the poverty (in our minds) in the bowels of Siberia to the world-class streets of Moscow and St. Petersburg. The days of suspicion, oppression, and shortages appear to be a thing of the past. Economies are booming, spending is everywhere and friendliness abounds.These Russians are just ordinary people, hard working, as curious about us as we are about them. We salute them, and the country of Russia for allowing us to visit!



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